The Values Of Prosperity

The Values Of Prosperity

“Jus pikkid up buddy, jus pikkid up. Thaet 60 lac BMW na, maine toh by Gaud last week hi buy ki. You should aulso pikkid up buddy.”

Such is the idea of excess in Punjabi culture, that even the ordinary roti goes with a rhyming vocabulary accompaniment. While the rest of India – particularly their more mathematically formidable Tamil counterparts – looks on in amused bewilderment, Punjabi culture proudly crested on the honed biceps of Punjabi men carries on blissfully; wearing, drinking, eating, thinking, abusing, driving, buying, watching, listening, gossiping, doing, reading, expressing, talking and showing in extravagance. Baroque is an incontestable way of life in north India.

What, therefore, must be the idea of refinement for the Punjabi man? Is there one? For surely, he does not consider his cirque de display loud.

Ours is a valiant attempt at putting our hands into the codes and the meanings behind the stuffed lions and the much more lively Punjab da sher.


The Voice of the Land

Mr. Bhushan Sethi is the Former Deputy Home Secretary of Punjab, reads up a lot on economics, is an active investor in real estate and to beat all Punjabi stereotypes, is a teetotaler. His son Vivek, is a Supreme Court lawyer by profession, loves long drives and food and champions education above all else. When we asked them what a refined life – the life that a civilized human being should lead – for a Punjabi is, the one thing they both responded with was the ownership of land and a life sourced from the soil.

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For this father son duo of Chandigarh, the idea of land or zameen, is almost a sacred idea. A prevalent idea across Punjabi’s, the seeds of this diehard love for their land lies in Punjab’s history. The northern Indian and Pakistani area now known as Punjab on both sides has been conquered by 16 different empires and races in the last 3000 years. Punjabis over centuries have been displaced constantly and, hence, have had to fight for their homeland.

Related to a Punjabi’s zeal for his land is his idea of space. The idea of sophistication in shelter is not as much about aesthetics as it is about expanse. People want the ‘kothi’ and not the ‘ghar’.

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This has resulted in a strong sense of pride and possessiveness about land. They look to make themselves self-sufficient through the land itself. Punjab is one of India’s most agriculturally fertile states. Mr Bhushan Sethi told us that 60% of the Punjabi population is rural and are farmers. In fact, no matter what Punjabis do or where they are in the world, they will proudly call themselves ‘sons of the soil’.

It is this thinking that has instilled in them an idea of not being dependent on anything but the land. Hence, land and the food it produces play a key role in the idea of refinement for a Punjabi.

Punjabis lay special emphasis on their food and they take it with them wherever they go. It is no surprise, therefore, that it is Punjabi cuisine that has made it to all parts of the world more than any other form of Indian food and often passes off as the only kind of Indian food itself.

Vivek told us that Punjab has the lowest level of hunger in India. And eating pure, homegrown and organic food that is high on nutrients is a sign of taste and refinement in Punjab. A lot of Punjabis regard packaged, factory-made and processed food unhealthy. They see it in poor taste and as a sign of an unfortunate, less fulfilling life.

Hence, for Punjabi women, expertise in cooking is seen as an admirable trait, a sign of subtlety and good breeding.

To Punjabis, the respect for food is a sign of appreciation of the finer things in life. That’s why food at Punjabi weddings is a key determinant of the refinement and taste of the hosts. To them, acknowledging the source of the food i.e. the land is a sign of humility and gratitude towards the Almighty.


Hardwork is the Road to Refinement

At 67, Sardar Balbeer Singh, zest for life is what strikes you most. An infectious enthusiasm marked the values and idea of life for this wheat and maize farmer. Balbeer Singh is married and has two children, one of whom works in Kuwait. The other studies at a small college in Jalandhar. Balbeer’s wife makes sure her husband’s effervescence and magnanimous personality stays well-fed through her simple but delicious cooking. Sardar Balbeer Singh loves his buffaloes next only to his wife and children. He looks after his crops as if they spoke to him.

But what keeps the stocky farmer ticking – and indeed a lot of Punjabis – is his passion for his work. Balbeer Singh told us that arguably every Punjabi is in pursuit of only one kind of life – an active, hardworking one. According to him, hardwork is the most revered virtue amongst Punjabis. There is an emphasis on self-sufficiency that makes hardwork imperative. He evocatively puts it as, “Mehnat ki roti khaate hai, muft ki nahi.”

Balbeer thoughtfully told us that such is the willingness to work in Punjabis that, at times, it even overshadows the need for higher education. Hence, in such a culture the choice of livelihood is a key source of refinement. Most Punjabis prefer to have their own farm land and till it or run their own business. These are considered far more respectable than a job. And no matter how educated one’s children are, they will always be expected to continue the family business or profession.

As Balbeer Singh took us on a tour of his earthy hut amidst the farms where he sleeps during the farming season, he profoundly told us that he was brought up on a culture of labour. In fact, most Punjabis are. They are a race proud to be physically laborious. And no one is ashamed to do manual work. A thought-provoking statement followed, “A refined person is humble enough to use his body for physical labour.”

According to Balbeer, refinement is in not assuming arrogance through knowledge or by doing work that involves little physical activity. That is lack of character and a very narrow-minded view on life. It reeks of lack of self-respect and a void of respect for humankind’s potential and for other human beings at large. For a Punjabi, physical health and activity are a key trait of a good life.

In fact, being relentlessly active is not just limited to Punjabis’ view on productivity. Interestingly, it is also how Punjabis view leisure, personal time, familial and social camaraderie and unwinding. According to Balbeer and a few other Punjabis we spoke to, A good Punjabi life is where lots of hardwork is balanced through a life full of openness, expressiveness, active unwinding and camaraderie.

Shyness, they say, is not a Punjabi value. Balbeer jovially told us at the peak of his voice, “Punjabis jo bhi karte hai, dil khol kar aur jee bhar ke karte hai.”

Openness, constant interaction and expressiveness are seen as signs of honesty and good values in Punjab as they reflect a perspective that’s not self-centred and is involving. And for a tightly-knit, small race, unity and camaraderie are essential.

The ideal Punjabi leisure is devoid of pensiveness, sedateness or solitude. It is meaningful when it is meant to be and Sufi music, profound Punjabi folk music, recitals of the Guru Granth Sahib (the holy book of the Sikhs) and discussing philosophy and human existence do form a part of such soulful leisure. But, essentially, being a recluse is not Punjabi and is seen as a sign of unhappiness and unfulfilling living.

Hence, Punjabi folk music can be spiritually and morally inclined but bears the traits of how Punjabis essentially see life. As the day waned and after the buffaloes had been fed, Sardar Balbeer Singh lay down peacefully on his khaat (bed made of simple wood and interwoven jute strings) told us that he prefers to listen to Punjabi folk music of the years gone by as the singers are local and have a sense of purity in their purpose, their lyrics aren’t vulgar, they have goodness and happiness as messages and, hence, he values them over the sizzle and glamour of Bollywood.


Mixing not Gleaning

In the dusty outskirts of Jalandhar, the industrial area is not just home to the livelihood of many Punjabi businessmen, it is also an emblem of the community’s model of progress – inclusive. The competition is intense but its not polarizing.

When we got to 58 year-old Mr NC Goyal’s asbestos products manufacturing plant, his son, Vikas Goel, 31, was rounding up the cash flows for the day. Vikas got married a few years ago and recently became a father. He took his wife to Switzerland for their honeymoon and is an avid reader of Indian authors such as Chetan Bhagat. While his primary focus is his business and the money he makes, he spends a few Sunday evenings writing down his thoughts and sorrows that he hasn’t shared with anyone. But the then throws them away because he asks, “Why dwell on things?”

Vikas and his father shared with us a perspective perhaps unique to Punjabis when it comes to refinement. Like when they do business, Punjabis actually believe in an idea of refinement that is not about gleaning but miscibility. Says Vikas, “We all feel a sense of pride and willingness to be part of the collective. For me, that’s a sign of a refined person.”

It’s not that Punjabis aren’t accepting of individual tastes or behaviour. Everyone is free to do what they want but what the community does detest is the claim of a superior rank based on such taste of behaviour. Mr NC Goyal said with a sense of honesty in his voice, “None of us is as good as all of us.”

Punjabis, the father-son duo said, think of those who see themselves as superior due to difference in tastes as people who are uncivilized, untrained in manners and of poor etiquette and upbringing.

Genuinely belonging to and feeling proud as a part of the community, therefore, is an integral part of a good life for a Punjabi.

Refinement is not about distance or seeking difference. It is about seeking excellence, collaborating and sharing it with everyone. And this is where the Punjabi idea of refinement is different – it is anchored in seeking excellence not just through oneself but through others.

Hence, celebration and sharing are considered key traits of a good life for Punjabis, Vikas told us with elan. The Goyals were unequivocal in telling us that that living life to the fullest is, indeed, inseparable from a Punjabi and is considered a sign of appreciating life and its bounties. Sharing and mixing is also obviously an occasion to display sophistication and taste but that never overshadows the true purpose – a rich community life.


Finding Salvation in the Everyday

Few people are as clear in their head as 37 year-old Harvinder Singh is about the way life should be lived. A father of two young boys, the industrial rubber products manufacturer is a man who prides himself on integrity and doing the right thing. A Royal Enfield enthusiast, a romanticist at heart, a fan of meaningful cinema, Punjabi folk and an SUV lover, Harvinder believes in being there in the thick of things. A spectator, a critic, a well-wisher, an opinion provider – that’s not Harvinder. He’d rather be a helper, the practitioner, a learner who fails but gets up and a good, credible, self-experienced advice giver.

Harvinder’s view on a good life is clear – family-centric, socially involved, religiously committed, fun but not rash, brave and one where the one who takes responsibility is also willing to shoulder the blame.

But perhaps what defines Harvinder is his understanding and practice of bravery and search for salvation or moksha.

Harvinder is tall, well-built. He eats only homemade, organic food. His family has never bought packaged butter or refined cooking oil. They use home-churned white butter and ghee (clarified butter). But Harvinder’s idea of bravery is not inspired purely by the physical. As he says with a wry smile, “Not every Punjabi wants to join the army, prove his masculinity, pick a fight, be loud and aggressive and listen to garish music. In fact, that’s just a handful. But as you know, it takes one rotten fish to spoil the lake.”

Harvinder told us that one has to look beyond perception to get a true idea of Punjabi ideals. He said that it’s an absurd notion to think that an entire race of people is devoid of any meaningfulness in their lives and are like depraved materialists. He laughs it off as arrogance of the pseudo-intellectual. According to him, Punjabis are very meaningful people. Of course, when they want to have fun, they open up. But whatever Punjabis do, they do it to the fullest. Even when its pursuing meaning.

But, sadly, because their notion of life is so unique where they don’t look down upon commercial achievement and material progress, it gets seen as shallow. He asks with bewilderment – is it our fault if we are a prosperous community and like to enjoy life with the money we’ve earned through our hardwork? After all, everyone has the right to sustenance, don’t they?

To Harvinder, it’s not the Punjabi idea of life that needs refinement, it is the beholder’s eyes. Because refinement is ingrained in every aspect of a Punjabi life. According to Harvinder, Punjabis love taking on challenges because they’re a race that had to earn its right to survive. Hence, taking on challenges is a sign of respectability in Punjab. And bravery is a virtue of nobility.

But what was refreshing was how Harvinder defined bravery. Bravery, for him and Punjabis in general, is not about violence but taking on each day. He said profoundly, “Bravery is not about physically fighting with people. That’s reducing such a great virtue to one kind of behaviour. Courage is far bigger than just that. Courage is the way you tackle life’s challenges daily.”

For Harvinder, going to work everyday in the hope that there will be enough business, negotiating uncertainty and obstacles in order to earn a living so he can sustain his family is a kind of battle in itself. And facing such uncertainty with confidence, sharp decision-making and adaptability to each situation on a daily basis is bravery.

And this manifestation of courage leads to an even bigger and purer concept of refinement for Punjabis, something that had a lasting and mind-opening impression on us. For Harvinder, the pursuit of salvation or moksha is not exclusive of the daily life. In fact, that is what we heard from other Punjabis too. Salvation is not some other-worldly experience that one needs to attain by deserting one’s loved ones and spending time away in a forest waiting for enlightenment. Contemplation must come from the everyday, by immersing oneself in the everyday. Each day for Harvinder is pure and noble. And working hard everyday being satisfied with whatever one achieves is a virtue of the good and the noble.

True salvation for Punjabis is not in seclusion but in inclusion, not in shunning but taking responsibility. Supporting one’s family, taking responsibility for their well-being and striving for happiness is an evolved virtue and the trait of a refined person. Salvation, as Harvinder puts it, is not an individual concept. “My family is a part of me. If my salvation doesn’t include them, it’s not salvation. It’s further entrapment.”

Welcome To English Pradesh

Welcome To English Pradesh

Over the last several decades, India’s present has been written in a language that isn’t one of its own but one that the country has prided itself on as if it were its own progeny – English.

Since the turn of the millennium, the English language has slowly been making inroads into smaller towns and villages of India. Influenced by factors like the spread of English-medium schools, the explosion of English language TV channels and the internet, many people here have not only adapted but have also embraced the new language.

However, how has small town India actually adopted, absorbed and adapted to English? Is the language a handbook to the outside world? Is it a business opportunity? Is it a status symbol or a sign of progress? How has access to the online world influenced the role of English for young people in small town India?

Armed with these questions and a camera, we set out to immerse ourselves in Itarsi and Harda – tier-three towns in the central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh (India’s largest state by area yet one of its less-developed ones) to discover the welcome English has been given in small-town India.


The Business of English

Deepak Dugya, 37, runs a company called Noble Computers that offers a specialized course in English training called Smartalk. He set up the franchise two years ago to tap into Itarsi’s growing appetite for the language. The course typically spans four months and uses standardized modules developed by the franchise owners. Classes are delivered through interactive computer software’s and regular classroom sessions.

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Smartalk, he says, is a ‘brand’ in this category and explains it’s pricing of Rs.4000, almost double the cost of other courses in the city. We stress on both grammar and pronunciation, while the other courses focus only on spoken English. Deepak himself doesn’t teach, although his two degrees, including a master’s in English literature, would probably qualify him for the job.

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The venture however, is not performing as expected. Students are hesitant to spend, he says, preferring to go for cheaper courses that are not only easier but also shorter in duration. The city’s environment too doesn’t offer many occasions to practice the language and most students leave after a few months of training. This has meant charging a monthly fee over a lump sum upfront. Even targeted Facebook ads and print advertising have failed to pull in the crowds. The latest buzz was around a competitor offering a English course for a mere Rs.150.

Undeterred, Deepak has now launched Bachpan, a playschool franchise in the same building. The course curriculum is entirely in English while the teachers use a combination of Hindi and English to train the toddlers. Such systems, he hopes, will help bring about change from the roots. Children are more willing to learn compared to adults, and parents are more willing to spend on quality English education. He’s optimistic having seen a healthy enrolment of 75 students in the first year.

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Bachpan currently operates till class KG, but Deepak hopes to expand it till class 5 in the coming year. This would mean expansion into another facility or using the floor currently occupied by the struggling Smartalk.

Puneet Soni went to a Hindi medium school in Itarsi before moving to Bhopal to study pharmacy. His Hindi background might have been a big problem in college if he hadn’t taken English classes from Mrs. Kothari, Itarsi’s best English teacher. So, he began doing well in Bhopal.

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During his first year there, he noticed a demand for good internet cafes, being a regular at them himself. Sensing a business opportunity, he decided to move back home to Itarsi before his first year of college was up to open up an internet cafe of his own in the heart of Itarsi’s market area.

Apart from the usual suspects (school and college kids), his customers include medical representatives and local businessmen. The medical reps use the computers to keep in touch with their regional office – often in Bhopal – and to follow up on sales orders; a lot of this official work is done in English. Businessmen come there to view and print orders from different parts of the country. With India having 22 official languages and several more languages and dialects, English is often the language best understood by both customers and the businessmen. A lot of their work is conducted in Hindi too, especially if the customers are located in the same region. One other group of people who frequent the cafe are investors, who come there to follow the stock market and catch up on the latest financial news – most of which is in English. They often don’t invest online, though, preferring to walk to the investment services franchisee store around the corner instead.


The Language of Remedy

Doctor Parag Nayak is one of the leading ophthalmologists in the Harda district, about 3 hours away from Itarsi. His clinic – The Apoorv Eye Clinic offers state of the art services like laser surgery and has a large pharmacy attached to it. On a typical day, he sees close to 40 patients, many of whom come from nearby villages and surrounding towns.

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Communication often becomes a problem in these situations. Most of these patients are familiar with Hindi while most prescriptions are written in English. This often leads to a situation where the patient is unclear about his medicines, but trusts the doctor purely on the basis of their relationship.

The use of English, Dr. Nayak says, is a necessary evil when it comes to medicine. Most procedures have very specific names and translating them into Hindi is not just difficult but sometimes impossible. A recent patient of his for example had to undergo a surgery for the removal of an entire eye socket. The correct medical terminology for this procedure is the ‘exculpation of the cornea’, which would be impossible to translate into Hindi. To ease the patient, he sometimes chooses to explain the problem in simpler Hindi analogies. In this case for example, he would describe the procedure as ‘galna’ or melting the waste components of the eye.

Prescribing in English has another key purpose. It is the only language that is understood by doctors across the country. The entire medical fraternity studies medicine entirely in English and this way all prescriptions can be read and understood by any doctor, irrespective of which part of the country he or she belongs too.

What about the patients then? How do they know what medicines to take and when to take them? This he says is where the local chemist comes in. Most chemists have a minimum of a B. Pharma degree, which ensures that they have a working knowledge of the English language. They read the prescriptions and attach a ‘Hindi tag’ detailing out the course of the medicines in Hindi. All the patient does then is follow the instructions, even if he can’t read the prescription himself.

For Gaurav Agarwal, putting up the sign “Your pharmacy family” (he called it their motto) above his medical store was a moment of pride when he returned to Itarsi to join the family business. The Agrawals opened a general store in 1946, a year before Independence. Some years ago, they decided to turn it into a pharmacy. That was the reason why Gaurav, after finishing school in Itarsi, decided to get an MPharm degree from Indore.

Unlike his three older sisters, Gaurav went to an English medium school. That really came in handy when he started college because Hindi medium students, the majority of the student body, really struggled because the pharmacy courses were always in English. Medical science needs a lingua franca and English is the preferred language worldwide. As a result, medical colleges are English only and doctors’ prescriptions are always in English. So the people interpreting the prescriptions and explaining them to patients who often don’t understand the language – pharmacists – need to be fluent in English. Gaurav says many students struggle for a year or even two, having trouble with classes and presentations. But, by studying extra on their own or by taking English lessons, they catch up and learn the language.

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Gaurav is proud to be one of the only masters degree holders in town and he puts his education to use as much as possible, even when it comes to the little things. Like the green cross on the Madan Chemist sign. He explains that the green cross is the international symbol for pharmacists, not the red one commonly seen outside pharmacies. That’s only for Red Cross, he says. But customers just don’t know the difference. He’s mildly disappointed that, till date, no one in Itarsi has asked him about the motto or the green cross. He’s hopeful it’ll happen someday, though.


The Portal to English

Jeetu, 28, works at the New Agrawal Mobile shop, a mobile repair and accessory shop in the main market of Itarsi. He has recently joined his father full time at the shop, after trying his hand at a few other jobs post graduation. Most business families prefer their children to work with them, he says. Only the service class allow their children to work in other cities like Bhopal and Indore. He himself was interested in an MBA from Bhopal but wasn’t allowed to pursue it. Today many of his school friends work in different cities across the country. Some have even gone abroad successfully.

People here can’t speak English, he says, but they can understand some words if they are written in Hindi. He points at the words ‘Downloading’ displayed prominently on a standee outside his shop. So this is also an internet café? No, downloading into the phone he explains. The shop offers a service that downloads movies and songs from the internet and then loads (downloads) them into the memory card of the users phone. This is meant for locals who are not familiar with the internet. The typical rate for 2GB of content is 50Rs.

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Shops like Jeetu’s get their content from registered distributors like Star Copyright Protection, a content owner that sells 1000GB of data at Rs.8000 a year and also issues a No Objection certificate to ward off police raids. Most of the demand is around the latest Hindi movies and music. Action films like Harry Potter and Transformers are also popular. Foreign films, he says with a wink, are quite high on demand too.

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Every evening, Puneet, who owns his own internet café, hangs out at the cafe with his younger brother and a gang of friends. It’s their daily hour or two of goofing off – fooling around, checking out the latest jokes shared on Whatsapp and making friends with girls on Facebook. They aren’t 100% fluent in English, but they might use it to impress girls over the first few messages; eventually, things switch to Hindi. If they aren’t sure how to say what they want to in English, they turn to a trusty friend – Google Translate. This comes in handy when they’re speaking with girls from a little outside Itarsi – like Japan or the Philippines. When they hear back in, say, Japanese, it’s back to Google Translate to figure the Hindi equivalent. With local girls, they’ll often communicate online in Hindi but type things out phonetically in the English alphabet.


English Only Behind Closed Doors

Up a narrow flight of stairs, just above her husband’s plywood shop, is the home and classroom of Mrs. Kothari or Kothari Ma’am – a prominent English teacher in the city for the last 14 years. My students speak English fluently, she boasts, sometimes even better than those from the metros. And they come from all backgrounds too – rich, poor, students, mothers, parents, businessman, even the elderly.

There is a huge demand for English here, she says, but most people are afraid of the language. They see it as something alien and hesitate to speak it when there are people around. This discourages them immensely. Most shift back to Hindi the moment they step out of class.

Her solution to this conundrum seems almost counterintuitive. Parents, she says, shouldn’t send their children to English medium schools until they can speak English as fluently as they speak Hindi at home. Language should never become a hurdle to acquiring knowledge. Until such time, a rich Hindi medium education will prove far more beneficial for a student’s future.

And yes, please let them SMS and use their phones! These help in practicing the English language. Maybe this way, the condition will be better in the next 10 to 12 years.

For the Bajpai family – Mukund, a general manager at the local Campa Cola factory, his wife Chitra, their three children Sarvesh, Aprajita & Ajita and Chitra’s father, Nileshji, a retired chartered accountant, English finds it’s comforts in varied ways.

Most of Mukund’s work involves dealing with bottlers and distributors, and Hindi is the chosen medium of communication. Everyone speaks Hindi at work, he says. We use English only when it comes to financial matters like accounting, tax forms, stocks statements and sometimes while dealing with the sales team. Hindi is essentially the business language around here.

Mukund himself studied at a Hindi medium, and learnt English on the job. He say’s the environment in the city does not encourage the use of the language. Those who do know hesitate to speak it in fear of making a mistake.

These adults are now trying to counter their awkwardness with the language. Tata Sky English for example has become a convenient way to learn the language at a nominal cost. English commentary too was an important way to hear and practice English till recently. A recent shift to Hindi programming, say NileshJi, has removed this option altogether.

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An anomaly to this is 17 year old Akriti Jaiswal or Bulbul,  Mrs. Jaiswal’s niece who also lives next door. Akriti has taken to English like a fish to water.  So much so that she passes in English easily, but struggles to clear her Hindi papers. English is more easier to write, she says, and explains how she often translates her Hindi class lectures into shorthand English notes. Her other passion is writing – an interest she enjoys through a regular journal capturing events, stories and poems that she find’s interesting. The topics vary across Diwali essays, poetry by Sylvia Plath, news about basketball stars and Hitler. Political figures, she tells us coyly, are her favourite and she’s read quite a few biographies by famous leaders, including one by the Führer.

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The Enabler

Sister Clara arrived in Itarsi many years ago, determined to help the area’s children. At Itarsi’s railway station, a major junction in the Indian Railways’ vast network, she noticed several children spending their days by the tracks, trying to earn a livelihood. Many of them had no families or homes to turn to, leaving them extremely vulnerable.

Sister Clara began by sitting with them on the platforms, teaching them English poems and rhymes, and getting the children to sing them together. Soon, she managed to convince the railway authorities to let her use a spare room in the station as a makeshift shelter for the children.

A chance encounter with a traveling couple from the UK, the Butterfields, was the next major turning point. The Butterfields, already in love with India, were blown away by Sister Clara’s story. They decided to help her however they could. To figure out how, the Butterfields and the Sister Clara asked the children what they would like to have. The answer was simple – a home. So, with the Butterfields’ help, a plot of land was bought, a home was built and Sister Clara’s charitable organization got a name – Jeevoday.

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Since then, Sister Clara has expanded her goals – she’d like all her kids to get a solid education and go on to lead happy lives. Understanding the need to know how to communicate well in English, she tries her best to teach them English in any way possible. Some of her ideas have involved using the services of the local priest, Father Rohan and a retired Navy colonel to take English lessons during the summer. As an incentive, she even promised to reward the children who scored above 85% in their exams by transferring them to an English medium school.

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This last idea, though, got a little resistance from the Butterfields. They believed that Indians should learn their own language well and didn’t really need to focus on English that much. So Sister Clara eventually couldn’t fulfill that promise to the kids who did get 85% or more.

But she did manage to convince the Butterfields to help her send one of her boys, Ashok, to an English medium college in Bhopal to study commerce and computer science. Now, unbeknownst to them, Ashok is a pro – he speaks English fluently. He worked hard in Bhopal and made sure he kept improving. All the other kids at Jeevodaya now have an amazing role model to look up to. It’s pretty clear – everyone wants to be the next Ashok.

The Butterfields plan to visit Itarsi in December. Sister Clara plans to spring a fluently English-speaking Ashok on them to prove what she believed all along. She smiles at the thought. She can’t wait.

The Progressive Beats Of Small Town India

The Progressive Beats Of Small Town India

For those who are city born and those who and those who have left their small towns for the big cities, small town India is still a slow, un progressive sight that lacks opportunity. Perhaps it is the baggage of the past or are they just not recognizing their hometowns in its improvised avatar.

It might not have the dreams and colours of Bombay or the modern city skyline but the energy, inventiveness and remix nature of middle India is definitely something to contend with.

To discover the pulse of this observe-modify-adopt culture, we set out for Kanpur – the emblem of a small city, a historical industrial town of the north, it is quickly also becoming a hub for popular artists, DJ’s and a burgeoning entertainment culture.


Reverse Migration

Shagun Malhotra, Jagpreet Singh and DJ Harsh are amongst the growing set of influencers that are making nightlife and entertainment in Kanpur progressive with the introduction of new concepts and experiences.

These are youth who, as has been the norm, left their sleepy small town to pursue their ambitions in the big city. Today, they are choosing to return to Kanpur to take advantage of the exploding opportunities in middle India.

The nightlife and entertainment circuit in Kanpur has been fairly closed and elitist, a consequence of affordability. But today, this youth returning to the heartland are breaking the barriers of privilege to open up Kanpur to newer influences and exposing them to entertainment options that people would once have to go to Delhi for. This is their way of adding back to their hometown.

Shagun Malhotra returned to set up Dhuaan, Kanpur’s first Mediterranean restaurant. She was going to train Kanpur’s senses with a new cuisine, a new genre of music and the town’s first hookah bar.

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“I wanted to create a space that would be a new experience for people – no one here knew what Mediterranean food is or house music! When I first opened Dhuaan, people kept asking my staff to turn the music down or change it from the lounge music but I gave strict orders not to change it upon any request” – Shagun Malhotra

She pushed the experience further when she flew down an international female DJ to play at a party in Dhuaan. The success of that night was another clue for her that Kanpur was thirsty for fresher ideas of partying.

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DJ Harsh of the oldest nightclub in Kanpur, Felix, reminisces about how when he first started playing, people asked him to play Bollywood while he played house. Today, he is known as the Remix King – he has created a whole new genre in Kanpur with ‘BollyHouse Music’. His latest endeavour however, is to change the music scene in Kanpur with ‘EDM’, even if it means spelling out ‘Electronic Dance Music’. On the Saturday night when we met him, he had a guest DJ to promote EDM music in Kanpur. His role in the Kanpur party circuit is influencing the people of Kanpur up with new sounds.

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“First I had to make people listen to house when they wanted retro Bollywod. Now, I want people to know yeh EDM kya hota hain, only if they get to hear it can they like it and accept it so I keep getting special guest DJ’s to come play at my club. Kanpur is ready for EDM, they just need to hear it” – DJ Harsh Bhutani

An event organizer, Jagpreet, organized Kanpur’s first Sunburn Festival, a electronic music festival with artists from all over. He said “the crowd must have come expected Sheila Ki Jawani but they left having enjoyed the experience and knowing a new sound”.

The crowd was bubbling with 15 – 22yrs who were up lip syncing, they are the ones who are online, discovering and downloading this music. The rest of the crowd was there learning about not just a genre of music but also the idea of a music festival and the experience of live entertainment.

While there is a growing appetite to consume new content, there needs to be a balance of how it is consumed. Organizing one time experiences like EDM night at a nightclub, or a female DJ spinning, give them a taste of the new, making it easier to consume and accept for middle India. Versus, a contrasting large scale event like Sunburn, was a financial failure and hints at how much or the limits of what middle India is willing to take in at one time.

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Daylight Seductions

Kanpur’s youth have improvised the idea of partying to create a sub culture that transcends time and location. These are often 18 – 25yr olds who want to experience the night but are limited by parental sanctions. One of the ways in which they are bypassing the taboo and judgement of going out at night, is by recreating the nightlife during the day. This legitimizes an experience that is otherwise prohibited and creates a new space for partying and entertainment.

Youth in Kanpur are recreating the night. The organizers call it the 3 – 7pm party slot. There begins to exists an alternate universe where the day turns into night behind the doors of the club. It is one of their most popular offering, allowing teenagers and young adults to negotiate deadlines, be at a party with boys and even the occasional consumption of alcohol.

“On Valentines day we book two slots one evening and one night. The evening slot is 15yrs+ so the teenagers who don’t have permission to go out at night celebrate it at our club between 3 – 7pm. Kuch farak nahi hain bas bahar din hain. We serve alcohol to 18+ yrs and today even the ladies are drinking – vodka, breezers aur aaj kal tequila shots bhi bahut hote hain” – Mr. Daniel, Cawnpore Club

With strobe lights, short black dresses and a DJ spinning a mix of Bollywood item numbers and Enrique, you feel transported into the night.

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One of the latest attractions in Kanpur is where the Café meets Nightclub to create new spaces for small town youth that bypasses the sanctions of the after hours.

“We needed more things to go out and do here – why walk around a mall for entertainment when you can go bowling? In the evening we pump up the music with the latest hip hop and dance mixes from international charts to really change the vibe for Kanpur”

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With Kanpur’s first Bowling alley, Foosball table and virtual games besides the regular leisure games like pool and darts, Xoomba is the next level of entertainment in small town India.


Homegrown Partying

The idea of partying doesn’t start and stop at drinking, dancing and music. It can be over chai and samosa or chaat and chilling while they talk about the last class, latest movie or a friend’s upcoming birthday. It might even be listening to Atif Aslam all night and jamming with guitars, making music. It captures a need for unique social experiences bringing a breadth to the meaning of partying across value systems.

The food courts in malls are creating neutral party zones. They have captured an idea that is against the stereotypical grain of hiding boy – girl relationships unless you were married. This is where the youth of small town India is most comfortable interacting with the opposite sex. It is where hanging out with the boys is seen as harmless as opposed to other open public spaces (mother’s always tell their daughters not to hang out in parks and at dams with boys or go on bike rides with them).

“Ek bada ice cream from Baskins or a Dominoes Pizza and we can sit here all evening – party kar di hamne friends ke saath, college bunk kiya, bahaar chale gaye”

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This idea of partying is homegrown, not borrowed. It is rooted in the social change between men and women that is fast emerging in middle India. They are not aping the city but finding the balance between tradition and modernity as their values evolve.

Another improvisation of the idea of partying is a concept particularly popular with the young bachelors, the ‘Car – o – bar’ party. This idea of hanging out in public places with a few drinks is a luxury of small town India. The freedom of driving around and finding open spaces to make your own party. It’s the same people, the same music and sometimes at a better more scenic venue as opposed to a crowded club.

“Agar paise nahi kharachna ho ya entry nahi hoti disco mein toh ho jaata hain car – o – bar!” – Sahil Gupta

This fluid style of partying involves listening to Atif Aslam, Sonu Nigam, Yo Yo Honey Singh and other Bollywood hits. Usually over beer or Royal Stag and chakna.


The Counter Culture Hero

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At a hookah bar creatively named ‘Hucka’, Karan, flanked by Tanya & Yasha, is celebrating his 26th birthday with his chaddi buddies and his older brother and sister in law visiting from Bombay. Make no mistake, the girls are there for him and he is unabashedly flirting with them. His unapologetic attitude with his brother and sister in law at his birthday celebrations is a reflection of a new comfort in his relationships. The biggest proof of this was piped with icing across his birthday cake – Happy Birthday ‘Generous Lady Killer’ Karan.

 

 

 

 

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By day, Karan uses this charm on the job as an assistant manager for Kotak Mahindra Bank, managing customers and making an impression with his bosses. He is making his modernity with his confident swagger whether at work or in front of family.

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Karan is the home bred hero with a sense of entitlement to public spaces (he was a regular at this hookah place) and modernity’s pleasures – aviator sunglasses, fast bikes, smartphones, almost inspired by a Nawazuddin Siddiqui in Gangs of Wasseypur except at a bowling alley in Kanpur not a back alley shooting guns.

While the nightclubs play Bollywood hits or remixes, this middle India frequented hookah bar plays English Billboard hits. Enrique, Pitbull and Aviicii blasted through the speakers. The ambience set the mood with the hookah as Karan blew smoke rings for the camera. The girls lip synched to Enrique rattling off the latest billboard hits they had downloaded. Karan’s final gesture of the evening was subtly settling our bill with the waiter after all, his profile picture on Facebook said ‘Born Star’ and he behaved like one.


Small Town India Big Themed Parties

A night at Kanpur’s best nightclubs will have you wondering if you’re suddenly in a metro. Felix in Kanpur is similar to Hype in Bombay and FTV in Delhi. Dhaaun lives up to the origin of it’s cuisine with a white washed Mediterranean look to the restaurant. The Waterside/The Deck at the Landmark hotel is akin to the pool side at the Taj President in Bombay or any other city 5 star pool side and a contrast to what is beyond the walls of the property. The ambience, music, food and themes in the party and entertainment circuit of Kanpur is proof the big ambitions of small town India

There is a sense of pride in Kanpur, they are not pejorative towards small town India anymore. As Jagpreet Singh, Organizer of Sunburn expressed, “In Kanpur today there is everything, our oldest club Felix matches international standards, we have a Sports Café Xoomba, there are newer experiences we are offering in Kanpur today”

Even though there are limited avenues of entertainment in Kanpur, the influencers are making it large with themes. Organizers are hosting Halloween parties, hippie themed, rock n roll party, truth or date party and even the outrageous ‘cat fight themed’ bash. Last year saw Dhuaan hosting and ‘End of the world’ party, staying topical with the what’s happening globally.

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Daniel, Manager of Cawnpore Club said “Today we organize many theme parties, people see on the net and ask us if we are holding a Halloween party. It gives some variety to the nightlife in Kanpur – otherwise it’s the same place, same people.”

Turning Skin Into Memoirs

Turning Skin Into Memoirs

There is an underlying ideology with all art forms, which is especially true for tattoo art, that these skin creations represent a fundamental meaning to the individual or group. What lies at the crux of the intensity of expression behind tattoos is that they convey deep meanings. People are visual creatures who construe diverse connotations when observing various arts, many irrational in their interpretation of what they see but nonetheless, true to them.

Perhaps the most interesting aspect of tattoos is the idea of creating lasting memories and to use the body as a photo album and the skin as a canvas. In these times of an abundance of fleeting experiences of many kinds, the idea of choosing experiences and affiliations that we want to create memories for says a lot about how we view identity and image today and what matters to us.

So we set out to meet the youth, the country’s largest cohort, from various parts of India who have gotten inked. They come from various walks of life and belong to diverse groups and communities. Secondly, we met tattoo artists who are giving new meaning to tattoos and are constantly experimenting with new ideas and art forms. Further, we analysed the symbols that were uncovered during our research to outline the themes that are reflected in popular tattoos today.


Indelible Faith

The Hindu god of destruction and death, Shiva is one of the most popular tattoos amongst the youth. The ultimate symbol of masculinity, Shiv’s might and omnipotence is a powerful myth of Hindu culture. Being someone who smoked pot, got high and danced as well as being the prime deity of death cults like the Aghors, Shiv and his symbols of the Lingham and King Cobra appear time and again.

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Another related symbol is the chant of Om. It is a ‘bija’ or the ‘seed’ mantra and is the audible expression of the transcendental, un attributable ground of reality.

Ankit prays every day with his mother in the morning and when he eventually decided to get his first tattoo, he knew it had to be Om along with the prayer encapsulated.

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While traditionally this might not fall into the idea of faith or religion, since ancient times, Charms have been the symbol that wards off evil spirits. The ‘Expecto Patronum’ charm from Harry Potter and the Celtic cross that we came across represented this belief.

The 28 year old who sported these thought that Expecto Patronum was a phrase that would help fight her inner demons to always feel positive about the world. Tattoos proved yet again that they continue to draw from their powerful original purpose and meanings as totems that help keep evil and misfortune away.

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Home away from home.

“And this prayer of the singer,

Continually expanding

Became a cow that was there before

The beginning of the world.”

~Rig Veda

The cow is one of India’s most sacred totems. Swapnil got a tattoo of a cow because his parents have a cow-shed ‘back home’. He finds some things fascinating about them, like how the quality of the milk changes when someone in the family is unwell. The cow to him, represents all that is holy and care-giving about family.

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“For I shall never walk this way again…”

– Omar Khayyam, Persian philosopher

For the exiled Parsee’s of India, the symbols, rituals and literature of their people becomes a dominating part of their identity. Worn proudly on their bodies as symbols which signify both tribal allegiances, as well as a form of remembrance.

In Roshni’s case, it was the poems that her grandmother would read out to her at night (arm). The figure on the back is her own design and interpretation of a mythical Persian symbol, a lion with the sun in its hands.

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Harshad lives away from home. And he rarely gets to visit. When he was young he was a very naughty boy and so his father would hit him every time he messed up majorly. He didn’t resent it, that is what you get for disobedience.

But now, as an adult, he misses that guiding hand. And so he decided to get a tattoo, which was an imprint of his father’s hand. And where else than on his shoulder blade. He took the imprint on paper, scanned it and then got a talented artist to get the shading right over hours of work and pain.

He cannot see the tattoo himself, nor do most people even know it exists, but to him it is internal. Always there, always reminding him of his father. And home.

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Defying transience

More has been said about the emotion of love than anything else in the world. And so it is not surprising to find many echoes of this in the lives of the youth and how they deal with the emotion. The tattoos about love were discovered in many forms – the pledge, to prove the intensity of the feeling and symbols that prove permanence and weave the name in. The most interesting stories are the ones which play on a paradox: very visible, but designed in a way that the moral police and authority will find it hard to prove what the tattoo is about.

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Nisha, the girlfriend. Ankit lives with his parents and doesn’t like disoberying them so he got Nisha written in a way that is only deciphered by him.

“How I wish, how I wish you were here.

We’re just two lost souls

Swimming in a fish bowl,

Year after year,

Running over the same old ground.

What have we found?

The same old fears.

Wish you were here.”

Akshay Gadiya, a 19-year old from Chennai got a tattoo to encapsulate the relationship he had with his ex-girlfriend. Couple of months after his break up, Akshay was a very depressed soul. One fine morning, he decided that he wanted to get a tattoo. It means a lot to him but he doesn’t know how to put it in words or talk about it.

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Another popular idea within this theme is the magic mirror, or portal that allows us to see the true reflection of someone – the soul, the person inside, sometimes another world, other imaginations.

All of these ideas are held within the many examples of tattoos that reflect a person’s deepest passions. What defines that person, what makes them beautiful or special and the stories it tells about them. Suhas, lives in the slums of Khar and works for that amorphous entity – the ‘software company’. By night, he plays a 19 string instrument which look like a banjo at Marathi weddings and sings popular Qawwali songs. His tattoo artist friends (sprouting up in most slums), told him that he had to get a tattoo. His only request was that it had to be about music. They looked for ideas on the internet and decided on ‘musical notations’. It was a painful process as it was on the neck but he does not regret it. His tattoo always catches the fancy of people who always question him about the meaning of the tattoo and why he got it.

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Crafting uniqueness

The tattoo artist of India is a creator and influencer of modern Indian culture. He is helping people discover new ways of expressing themselves and being. People actively seek his opinion or advice when ‘shopping’ for tattoos.

The latest trend in tattoo art is the idea of geometric patterns, moving it from the confines of being a ‘representation’, to being a form that exists, for its own sake. It is finding echoes in how non-representational art forms use the beauty of geometry, like in Islamic architecture.

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Another more modern almost technological representation of uniqueness was the barcode. It has become the symbol of modern day free market society – representing the idea of the individual as a product with a shelf-life. It is the ‘digital-ness’ of the tattoo which attracts young post-Millennials.

Manaav, 19yrs, Chennai said that his was very spontaneous. The numbers below the barcode stand for the birthdays of his family. Mom, dad, brother and himself.

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Negotiating Rebellion

A quintessentially Asian concept, the ‘arranged-love marriage’ is a beautiful example of the new cultures that emerge when old values meet new ones.

This is the story of Apurva, from a conservative Jain household which frowns on unchaperoned interactions with the opposite sex for young unmarried girls. She was sent Saket’s photo and bio-date through a marriage potal site. He came highly recommended by the family (who looked for common backgrounds and prospects. She had been waiting for the One True Love, but was never going to be allowed to fully make her own decisions about whom to marry. But she refused to just jump into things. She flew to Delhi to meet Saket, spend some time with him, with the sanction of the families. On spending time, something clicked. And they decided over the course of many nights just talking on the phone that this felt special. They agreed to the marriage. One day soon after, without telling anyone, they went and got each other’s names tattooed. The tattoos symbolise everything love should be, to Apruva.

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For Sejaswini Bala from Chennia, her tattoo was a silent protest. She believes that where her friends like to get sensuous tattoos like hearts and music notes, she wanted something that was not feminine, or passive at all. She looked for and finally settled on the warrior tiger, a symbol of masculine power, domination and beauty.

 

 

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This was almost a comment on the stereotypical imagery associated with women in the nation today, the clash of gender norms and the fight for freedom and safety that most women endure.


Consecrating Kinship

People, groups, events can have a deep-rooted impact on our lives. When this happens, the connection becomes so irreversible that it begins to influence our beliefs, ambitions and worldview.

Anish Kotian sports a Barcelona FC tattoo. He says, “My girlfriend (now my wife) gifted me this. I have been a Barca supporter since 1999. During that time, Barca was not as big as it is now. They were the underdogs to Real Madrid but played some beautiful football. They were always challenging Madrid in La Liga and losing out in the Champions League. But when they won, they played some beautiful football.”

The club has always stood for a cause bigger than just football, hence the line ‘Mes que un club’ which means ‘More than a club’. To Anish, it signifies the purity of his love for the game and his favourite club.

Anish says, “Its my support to everyone who wants to achieve more. Stand for something bigger and more noble than just being defined by your roles in daily life. This is how the original typeface is and I have just replicated it.”

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Rishab Oberoi and Kashiv Sapte on the other hand pledged their allegiance to Michael Jackson with a tattoo, making their fan ship permanent.

For Kashiv, “I got this tattoo when MJ died. I was training to be a choreographer, but when he died, something died with me. This tattoo, with its deep shading was very painful, but I wanted it. I never danced professionally again.”

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For Rishab, Michael Jackson shaped his teen years. “He was the one common thing between my constant juggling between America and India. One of his songs has the line: ‘If you want to make the world a better place, take a look at yourself, and then make a change. I’m starting with the man in the mirror’. I wanted to be able to see it every morning when I brushed my teeth. “

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The deepest form of kinship usually comes from family. Family in India is driven by a sense of rootedness, a sense of giving back, of acknowledgement and respect.

Family tattoos are popular amongst the youth of India. Not hidden, not subversive, but re-einforcing the ties and bonds that already exist for all to see. For the middle classes, they are actual portraits of family photos, children, grandparents. For the more educated and affluent, they are unique designs, which are part adornment, part affiliation.

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Discovering Sexuality

Interestingly, tattoos are a very gendered symbol. For men, it captures an idea of power or almost becomes a source of more power. For women, it is a sign of times, capturing an idea of freedom through rebirth and flight.

A symbol of ‘mardangi’, and martial spirit, the Lords of the Jungle appear time and again on the shoulder and arms of young men today.

For Ajit Ranchi, it was simply inspired by his star sign. He says, “I am a Leo cusp and I love the symbol of the lion”. On the other hand, for Hanoze Tarapore, it is a symbol of strength – “the tribal lion represents latent aggression, the Chinese symbols mean – inner strength/resilience”

With women, a recurring theme is the idea of flight/re-birth. The phoenix is a popular symbol of the idea of something that is reborn from ashes and to women, it is both beautiful, as well as a mythical symbol of the experiences that they have learnt from and that makes them stronger, typically heartbreak and loss.

The symbol of birds and butterflies, of all shapes and forms, literal and fantastical, in mid-flight, to them capture the idea of perennial freedom and joy, something that is an ideal.

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